Monday, May 8, 2023

Jewelry and its Purpose

 Something that stuck with me after Thursday’s lecture was the question of why Faery clothing and jewelry are so radically different from our own and why that might be.  We discussed the idea that medieval-style jewelry might be embarrassing, or too ornamental for a place like corporate America, which necessitates conformative dress.  I also think the religious context of many jewelry items contributes to this difference between the medieval and the modern. In Medieval times, jewelry was often commissioned by the Church or the wealthy for commemorative purposes or as reliquaries.  The association between wealth, religion, and display, meant these pieces were exclusive and for a small, elite group. Today, religious jewelry serves a broader audience and is intended for everyday wear, so affordability and practicality matter more than show.  As a result, these pieces are smaller and less elaborate.  Anecdotally, I suspect there has also been a shift in the attitudes towards flashy religious pieces.  Growing up Catholic, many of my family members word scapulars and rosaries.  However, I was always told that those items were meant to be worn under clothes rather than seen, because showing them off defeated their purpose.  Religious practice was for the individual, not for others.


However, I think the key to the radical difference between Faery and modern jewelry lies in the purpose of medieval jewelry which we discussed in class.  In addition to reliquaries, jewelry served many purposes such as a ring used to seal a document, a brooch used to fasten clothing, or a pendant used to hold perfume or other scents.  This practicality, in addition to the value of jewelry as a status symbol during the Middle Ages, made it a prominent part of daily life which is not particularly relevant today.  We no longer have a widespread need to seal letters, we have buttons to fasten our clothes, and if we really need perfume on the go, a purse does the trick.  Digital banking negates the need to put your wealth into gems and precious metals, and technological advances have created a new kind of status symbol in cars and gadgets.  However, the intention of jewelry that exists in the Middle Ages applies in Middle Earth with one notable difference.  The jewelry of Middle Earth serves less physical but nevertheless important purposes.  They are vessels of power, and their appearance reflects this significance. 


For example, this week we discussed the Silmarils and their appearance and purpose. They were created by Fëanor as “he pondered how the light of the Trees [of Valinor], the glory of the Blessed Realm, might be preserved imperishable” (The Silmarillion, 67). The Silmarils were described as having a bright inner light, as if containing the essence of the Two Trees of Valinor, which gave light to the world before they were destroyed by the dark lord Morgoth. They were crystal-like and appeared to be on fire, and they were said to change color depending on the angle and intensity of the light.  Feanor created the Silmarils from three different types of light: the light of the Two Trees of Valinor, the starlight of Varda, and his own inner flame. Each Silmaril contained a different type of light and was set into a beautiful golden chain, called the "Nauglamir," which was also crafted by Feanor.  Their beauty conveys their power by drawing desire.  They attract a “greedy love” and were the cause of war at the hands of Melkor. 


Another example of powerful and beautiful jewelry is the Elfstone, Elessar, given by Galadriel to Aragorn, or the analogical Evenstar he is given by Arwen in the movies.  The Eflstone was a green gem set in a silver eagle-shaped brooch. It was a token of friendship and a symbol of Aragorn's future as the rightful king of Gondor.  The stone was also said to have healing properties, which were said to be able to cure wounds and illnesses.  The Elfstone, much like the Silmarils, was also supposed to contain light (specifically the light of the Sun).  Also like the Silmarils, this elaborate piece of jewelry contained a power to be wielded and envied. 


Lastly, I want to address the most important, yet most plain, unadorned piece of jewelry in Middle Earth: the One Ring. The One Ring is intentionally plain and unadorned in contrast to the highly ornate and decorative jewelry of Middle-earth because it is meant to be the ultimate tool of power.  The ring was created by Sauron to consolidate his power over the other races of Middle-earth, and its design reflects this purpose. Rather than being highly ornate, the ring is unassuming and inconspicuous, allowing its wearer to blend in and avoid drawing attention to themselves. The plainness of the ring also serves to mask its true nature as a powerful artifact, which is crucial to Sauron's plan to use it to dominate all of Middle-earth.


Furthermore, the simplicity of the ring's design makes it more relatable to a wider audience. Unlike the highly ornate and specialized jewelry of the elves or dwarves, the One Ring is a simple gold band that could be worn by anyone. This makes it all the more dangerous, as it can appeal to anyone who desires power or control, regardless of their background or allegiances. - JMR


3 comments:

"Tolkien: Medieval and Modern" said...

Very nice summary of the main pieces of jewelry we talked about. I would like to hear more what you thought about the celestial and medicinal associations with gemstones that we saw in Marbode and in the passages from scripture that we saw used in "Pearl." I agree that we do not use jewelry in the same way now (and, arguably, that we put jewels elsewhere in our technology—there are many preciouse metals hidden in our phones!), but one of the arguments I tried to make was that the gemstones in Tolkien's medieval sources worked on multiple levels, from the functional to the symbolic. Could you explore these various levels more? RLFB

Unknown said...

Your notion that the elaborate jewelry of Tolkien's world is meant to be more functional than ornamental is interesting considering the fact that we often consider clothes to have gone in the exact opposite course through history, with people in older ages wearing (if they could afford them) elaborate and difficult-to-wear garments, while we wear plain, simple and practical shirts, pants, etc. I also think that a large part of the value we ascribe to those old clothes and jewelry is related to the enormous effort required to produce them, especially in an age without modern technology. I take your points about the One Ring but do you think Tolkien intended it as a kind of irony, that the least ornate object is the most powerful? Perhaps, and this may be reading into it too much, it is intended to question whether the true purpose of those other ornate objects is to accomplish the tasks for which they were designed or to 'show off' and display wealth; or, maybe to demonstrate some kind of symbolic principle.
-LM

CLP said...

I'm thinking now of the phrase "power corrupts." So far it seems like every item of jewelry or precious stone has been a corrupting force. This includes not only the jewelries that you have listed, but also the palantiri, which I consider to be another coveted object. What is Tolkien trying to say about jewelry, then? It feels like they have great value, significance, and importance, but at the same time that they are dangerous. Is he telling us to stay away? - CLP